Featured Place: Eden Valley Refuge

History of Eastern Iowa

 

Twelve thousand years ago, the last glaciers melted, and the first humans entered the area known as Iowa. The Oneota began small-scale farming in the Eastern Iowa region one thousand years ago. Their descendants, the Ioway, were prominent from the 1600s to the 1800s. The Ioway defended their territory against the Sauk, Meskwaki, Sioux, and European settlers, who all vied for space. In 1836, the Ioway ceded their remaining lands under pressure from the United States government.

 

After the departure of Indigenous populations, much of Eastern Iowa’s native ecosystem was disrupted. Demand for lumber toppled the hardwood forests that stood for 5,000 years. The 8,000-year-old prairie was plowed under in favor of large-scale farming.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

History of Eden Valley Refuge

 

Although the limestone bluffs of Eden Valley made it difficult for farmers to turn a profit, Arnold Wulf, the last private landowner of the Eden Valley region, saw potential in the land. With the help of his family, Wulf allowed the native hardwoods to repopulate and planted pine trees in one deforested area. Decades ago, Iowa Natives staff met Wulf’s sons who recalled hauling buckets of water from Bear Creek to the saplings at the top of the bluff.

 

Wulf shared his love of the region with his community, stringing Christmas lights in the trees along the bluff and holding dances in the area that is now the Eden Valley Nature Center. According to former Eden Valley park ranger, Chip Brown, remnants of those lights can still be seen embedded in the tree trunks. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arnold Wulf’s dream for Eden Valley was to secure it for wilderness preservation. In 1970, after the State of Iowa declined the option to purchase the land, Jackson County bought it for $20,000. Later, they entered into an agreement with Clinton County, and for a time the two conservation districts cared for the land jointly. Though the area is located in Jackson County, Clinton County Conservation owns and cares for the property today.

​

Eden Valley Refuge Supports Iowa Natives

​

Thanks to conservation efforts, Arnold Wulf's pine trees and much indigenous flora and fauna inhabit the restored woodlands found at the refuge.

 

Jill Schmidt has worked for Clinton County Conservation for thirteen years. As the environmental education coordinator, Schmidt oversees one of the largest county environmental education departments in the state and enjoys sharing her passion for natural diversity with people of all ages. She says, “People need to realize diversity is what we need.”

 

Thankfully, according to Schmidt, diversity is alive and well in Eden Valley. Compared to most wooded areas in Iowa, the limestone bluffs include relatively old-growth shagbark hickory, oaks, black walnut, and hackberry. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When it comes to flora, Eden Valley is perhaps best known for its spring flowers—spring beauty, phlox, Dutchman’s breeches, and mayflower, to name a few. 

 

A healthy forest dynamic includes decomposing trees, offering vital nutrients and habitat for natives like millipedes, toads, snakes, and land snails. Unless they are affecting the trail systems or buildings, conservation staff members don’t remove dead trees as they are habitat for a variety of species including turkey tail mushrooms, owls, and bats.

 

Limestone bluffs and caves are also roosting and hibernating spots for Iowa’s nine native bats, two of which are federally endangered: the Indiana bat, and the Northern long-eared bat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Bear Creek area makes for great birdwatching in the lower valley where birders can spy indigo bunting, American goldfinch, and redstarts.

 

A look skyward can reveal many raptors including bald eagles, hawks, turkey vultures, and owls. Eagles favor the view from Arnold Wulf’s pine trees. Those interested in hearing a barred owl will most certainly hear at least one calling between dusk and dawn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many other Iowa natives are found within this natural ecosystem. One of the most notable is the bobcat. Unregulated hunting, trapping, and habitat loss nearly wiped the bobcat out of Iowa altogether, but this once-endangered Iowa species is making a comeback. In 2019, Chip Brown thought he heard the scream of a bobcat on an early evening hike. Trail cameras captured part of the proof. Bobcats are alive and well at the refuge.

 

Iowa Natives staff hold special places in our hearts for Eden Valley. A few of us have been walking its trails for over forty years. The natural beauty lives up to its namesake. Eden Valley Refuge is a flagship example of the precious natural spaces we celebrate.